Go BottomMounting lights to ROP
 | Eddie Suckow
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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2001-11-30 33542
I need to mount some rear facing utility lights to use with my 3ph snow blower. I'd like to put them up high on my ROP but I would like to do so without effecting the integrity of the ROP. Should I weld a plate to the bar and mount the lights or just drill some holes and mount them right in the ROP? Any one got a link to pics? Also, who suppplies a nice weather proof switch to mount in my plastic switch cluster? I already have a decent sealed relay. Thanks, Big Ed
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 | Art White
Join Date: Jan 2000 Posts: 6898 Waterville New York 
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2001-11-30 33543
Any time you weld or drill a roll bar you have hurt the integrity of the roll bar. OSHA would make you replace it. I would build some brackets to go around the roll bar to support your lites. When you drill or weld to them even if you think you are improving the unit like lites or a radio you actually might hurt yourself for resale value as the dealer would have to consider replacing it in order to sell the tractor. ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2001-11-30 33551
I put front & rear facing work lights on my steel canopy. However, for driving, a narrower trapezoidal beam would be better. I used AC junction boxes with 1/2" or ¾” knockouts in the middle. The knockouts are just right for mounting stub on the lights. The lights can be swung up and down on their mounting. I screwed the boxes to the bottom side of the canopy near the front and back edges. The way, the lights can be swung down below low the canopy so I don’t drag them off on my shed door frame.
Without a canopy, clamps to the ROPS is the way I've heard of it being done. However, there is another issue. I haven't had to blow snow at night, but I suspect that my work light would do a very good job of illuminating the snow coming out of the chute and not much else. I've heard of people who mount lights on the rear of the blower so it shins out under the flume.
Guess I'll carry on and describe my recent 'silly project'--silly but useful. This summer I decided that I wanted a rotating flasher on the canopy since I road the tractor to our camp and also have to be on the highway to clear snow from several drive entrances. I bought a magnetic type with a cigarette lighter plug in. Well, the tractor doesn't have the cigarette lighter option, and I did have some 220V twist-lock plugs and receptacle. So, I wired a 20A receptacle into the wiring for my work lights and put a twist lock plug onto the end of the flasher. It works, and it's not going to fall out. However, the plug and receptacle cost more than the flasher and it would be really silly if I didn't have them in a spare parts box. Well, not to be deterred, I carried on and wired a twist lock plug onto the output of a 1A charger I use to keep the battery topped up. Now I just plug the charger into the lighting circuit. I do have to realize that the male twist-lock plug ends are live, which might be acceptable at 12V but should never be done in a 220V circuit.
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| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962 
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2001-11-30 33553
Tom, since you mention the trapezoidal beam, I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth. I bought my auxillary lights at Northern Tool, but I've seen what I think is the same thing at Tractor Supply Co. At any rate, I put a trapezoidal light on the front of my canopy (mounted on the frame underneath) and a flood light on the rear. Both lights LOOK the same and cost the same, but put out a different beam. They also had a "spotlight" with the same appearance and price. ....
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| Craig Dashner
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-11-30 33557
Something to consider: When I put one on mine (JD 4100) there are already 2 holes in the bottom of the ROPS for mounting of the JD rear light kit. Also, under the seat is an empty plug for said kit. I bought a trapezodial light from tractor supply, used the existing hole in the ROPS, ran the wire thru the ROPS and tapped into the plug under the seat. The rear light comes on with the headlights. I don't have seperate control, but I don't really need it either. The ease of installation far outweighs the lack of switch for that light. I am not sure if other brands come prewired for aftermarkets, but it would be worth looking. ....
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| PJDrew
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-11-30 33562
Funny, I did this project last night. I used squared U bolts and a flat piece of steel with holes in it. I used this last year and it works pretty well. I mounted 2 halogen driving lights forward facing(Work great for loader work) and 1 in the middle facing backward(for snowblower). I put switches on the forward lights and reverse one. I did not want to drill or change ROPS. Last year I had lights mounted on top of ROPS and they would get caught in low tree branches. So this year I mounted lights under ROPS bar and they still are a good placement and not exposed to trees. This system may not be the prettiest looking but very few people see me blowing snow at night anyway.
Regards PJ Drew ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2001-12-01 33580
I got my lights from my dealer. I forgot the brand, but they have their own switches and come in three beam widths. I do have floods on the front and back, even though the tractor headlights are about worthless with the loader on. Since I was doing 'silly projects' yesterday, I guess I can do a 'duh' moment today. About a month ago the front light burnt out, and just to have an extra, I ordered two replacement bulbs from my dealer--two floods. Guess I'll still have to drive in low range at night, but at least I'll have good field of vision. Who knows, maybe I’ll have to replace a loader cylinder the middle of the night in a field sometime, or something. Then, I’ll be glad for the front flood.
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| Stan in Calif
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 47 Sacramento Valley- Glenn County
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2001-12-02 33607
Ed, there are weatherproof switch covers available to fit standard toggle and push button switches. They are made of rubber and have a threaded metal base that screws on to the shaft of the switch. A good auto/truck parts store should have them. - Stan ....
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| Joe in Pa
Join Date: Posts: 1
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2001-12-23 34001
Talk about procrastination, I bought two forward and one rear light two years ago and have not installed them yet. So I have had alot of time to think about how to get this job done. I decided to have a piece of sheet metal cut and bent so it will fit around the rops. I will have lip or flange where the two ends meet and drill holes in it for the lights to mount to. Seperate switches for forward and rear facing lights. I even thought about (being that I have had so much time to think about this) putting a piece of rubber between the two metals so any movement will be stopped and also prevent paint scratching and subsequent rust. Good luck if you try this method, let me know you will probably get it done before me.
joe ....
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| TomG
Join Date: Feb 2002 Posts: 5406 Upper Ottawa Valley
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2001-12-24 34013
Yes, I got all enthusiastic about lights and put some on. Turns out that most tractor work to do at night seems better left till the next day, and I really don't use the lights much. It's still good to have them to pull into the shed at dusk and occasionally for finding something in the shed at night.
With some hindsight, I probably could have found a better use for my enthusiasm, but I'm still happy to have the lights. Maybe enthusiasm improves with age. I too have a 2-year old light. I intended to put it on the corner of my 3ph snow blower so it would shine underneath snow coming out of the chute. The rear work light probably would be worse than useless—just like the headlights shining through the loader frame. I figure that's a good idea but I still haven't done it. I suppose that eventually we'll get a storm heavy enough so I'll want to clear snow before morning. Then, I'll probably wish enthusiasm won out over procrastination.
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